Skincare Protocols | January 28 2025

7 Best Skincare Ingredients for Oily Skin - and What to Avoid

Oily skin typically means that you produce too much natural oil which can result in multiple issues. There are a range of contributing factors that can also lead to an overly oily complexion including the environment, lifestyle, age, genetics, and hormones. 

While your skin's natural oils can keep it youthful and hydrated, excess oil can lead to clogged pores, blemishes, and a shiny complexion. The key to managing oily skin lies in choosing the right skincare. But with so many products on the market, it can be challenging to know what ingredients are good for oily skin.

If you're unsure where to start, look at our guide to the best skincare for oily skin and discover ingredients specifically designed to balance oil production, reduce shine, and keep your complexion clear and healthy. 

Salicylic acid

This is a type of beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate deep into the pores. Salicylic acid is effective for oily skin as it has exfoliating properties that help clear excess sebum and dead skin cells that can cause blemishes. It's also an anti-inflammatory and can help reduce blemishes, blackheads, and discoloration caused by bacteria.

How should I use salicylic acid?

This ingredient can be found in some of the best skincare products for oily skin including cleansers, toners, exfoliators, and serums as well as in targeted spot and topical treatments. How you use it depends on the exact product you choose but it's typically recommended to follow these steps: 

• Carry out a patch test: This should be done to make sure you don't have an allergic reaction or suffer irritation. Test the product on a small area of skin for three days and, if there is no reaction or irritation, use as normal. 
• Wash the skin or, if using a cleanser, wet gently: This helps the product absorb into your skin and ensures a clean base. 
• Apply the product as per the instructions: This could mean applying directly to the affected area or rubbing a cleanser into the skin in circular motions. 
• Rinse and pat the skin dry: Avoid the eyes and mouth as you wash the product off your skin.
• Wash your hands: If you've used a cream, serum, gel, or topical treatment, ensure you thoroughly wash your hands. 

ZO® Oily Skin products feature a range of exfoliating cleansers, serums, scrubs, and blemishes treatments to help you achieve an oil-free complexion. 

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a multi-tasking ingredient and a form of vitamin B3 that's used to address a variety of skin concerns. Niacinamide can help oily skin in multiple ways. As well as regulating oil production by reducing sebum, it can minimize the appearance of pores and improve texture. This wonder ingredient can also strengthen the skin's barrier, meaning you won't need to worry about stripping natural oils which can leave complexions dry and irritated. 

Using niacinamide as part of your skincare routine 

Niacinamide is often found as an ingredient in products for oily skin including cleansers, toners, and serums. It's generally well tolerated by all skin types and there's no right or wrong way to apply it, although it's important to always follow the instructions on the specific product you're using. Some people like to use it as a night-time serum or hydrator while others might prefer to apply it first thing in the morning as part of their skincare routine. 

Clay

Clay is one of the oldest and most effective natural ingredients for controlling oil production. It can absorb excess oil from the skin’s surface without stripping it of its natural moisture, making it an effective ingredient for those prone to oily skin. Using clay as part of your skincare regimen can help prevent blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. 

The different types of clay

It's well-known that clay is one of the best ingredients for oily skin, but which type is the most effective? 

• Kaolin: This is considered one of the gentlest exfoliants for sensitive skin so if you're new to using clay as part of your skincare, it might be a good one to start with. 
• Green: This is great for reducing oils and impurities on blemish-prone skin and can help detoxify the complexion. 
• Rhassoul: A popular type of clay that's often used in skincare products, rhassoul is great for removing toxins and bacteria. It's also mild so won't irritate or dry your skin. 
• Bentonite: This is the strongest clay and is extremely effective at removing impurities, making it one of the best ingredients for oily skin. If you have very sensitive skin, choose a milder type or use it only occasionally to prevent excess dryness or irritation. 

How to use clay as part of your routine

The most common way to reap the benefits of this natural mineral is by using a clay mask. These are typically applied to clean skin and left on for 10 to 20 minutes. The mask is rinsed off with warm water. If you have areas of dry skin, apply a hydrating serum afterward to lock in moisture and prevent irritation. 

Hyaluronic acid

It’s a common misconception that oily skin doesn’t need hydration. Dehydration can cause the skin to produce even more oil to overcompensate and that's where hyaluronic acid comes in. This substance is produced naturally in the body and is an excellent property for combatting dryness. Often overlooked as one of the key ingredients for oily skin, hyaluronic acid helps to attract and retain moisture without clogging pores. 

It's safe to use on most skin types but can be particularly beneficial for oily skin as it can help maintain a healthy production of those natural oils. 

Using hyaluronic acid

You'll find this ingredient in a range of skincare products, including many suitable for oily skin including serums, hydrators, face masks, and creams. It can take time to see results and it's best to incorporate it as part of your targeted skincare routine. 

Retinol

While this is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging, retinol is also good for oily skin. This is because, like hyaluronic acid, it can help maintain natural oil production and prevent dryness. One of the main benefits of retinol is its exfoliation properties, leading to a reduction of clogged pores, breakouts, and skin congestion.

How to use retinol as part of your regimen

Retinol can typically be used on all skin types, including oily skin, but it's recommended to build tolerance gradually if you're new to this ingredient. It's also important to follow the instructions on your chosen product. You'll find retinol featured in a range of skincare products including cleansers, creams, and serums which can be used daily once you've built up your skin's tolerance. ZO® Retinols include skin brighteners and repair creams that can help improve the skin's texture and appearance.

6. Glycolic Acid

While salicylic acid works inside the pore, glycolic acid works at the skin's surface. As an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), it is water-soluble and targets the outermost layer of the epidermis, breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and encouraging their removal. For oily skin, this surface-level exfoliation complements the pore-deep action of BHAs by keeping the skin texture smooth and reducing the buildup of cells that can contribute to congestion.

Glycolic acid is also one of the smallest AHA molecules, which allows it to penetrate the skin surface more effectively than other AHAs like lactic or mandelic acid. This makes it particularly useful for improving skin texture, refining the appearance of enlarged pores, and supporting a more even skin tone over time.

How to use glycolic acid for oily skin:

• Use glycolic acid toning pads morning and evening as part of your daily Getting Skin Ready® protocol; pre-formulated pads that combine both acids are balanced for regular daily use.
• When using separate, higher-concentration glycolic acid and salicylic acid treatment products, avoid applying both in the same session; ask your physician about the right sequencing for your skin.
• Always apply SPF the following morning – AHAs increase photosensitivity
• Start at lower concentrations (5–10%) and increase only if your skin tolerates it well

7. Zinc

Zinc is one of the most underrated ingredients for oily skin management. As an anti-inflammatory mineral, it helps calm active blemishes, reduce redness, and visibly soothe irritated skin. It also plays a role in regulating sebum production: zinc inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha reductase, which is involved in the conversion of hormones that can trigger excess oil output.

In topical skincare, zinc most commonly appears in two forms: zinc oxide (a physical sunscreen filter and skin-soothing agent) and zinc gluconate or zinc PCA (targeted for sebum regulation and anti-inflammatory action). For oily skin, zinc oxide-based SPF formulations offer a dual benefit: sun protection and a mattifying, oil-absorbing finish that works throughout the day.

Zinc is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive oily skin, making it a reliable supporting ingredient in any oily skin system.

Ingredients to Avoid If You Have Oily Skin

Choosing the right ingredients is only half the equation. Certain ingredients and formulation types can worsen oiliness, clog pores, or trigger the skin into producing even more sebum as a compensatory response.

Avoid	Why
Comedogenic oils (coconut oil, cocoa butter, flaxseed oil)	High comedogenic rating; can block pores and contribute to congestion
Heavy occlusives (petrolatum in full-coverage creams, thick balms)	Sit on the skin surface and trap excess oil beneath
Overly stripping alcohols (alcohol denat. as a primary ingredient)	Strip surface oils aggressively, triggering rebound sebum overproduction
Fragrance-heavy formulas	Can cause inflammation that worsens oil production and breaks down skin barrier
Rich, emollient night creams not designed for oily skin	Can overwhelm oily skin; opt for lightweight, non-comedogenic hydrators
Harsh physical scrubs (large particle abrasives)	Can create micro-tears in skin, triggering inflammation and excess oil

The general rule: oily skin needs to be balanced, not stripped. Products that aggressively dry out the skin surface tend to backfire, causing the skin to overcorrect with increased sebum output.

Build Your ZO Oily Skin System

Managing oily skin effectively requires a structured system, not just individual ingredients. Here is a practical AM and PM framework using ZO products designed for oily and blemish-prone skin.

Morning System

Step	Product	Benefit
Cleanse	Exfoliating Cleanser	Removes overnight buildup without over-stripping
Exfoliate	Exfoliating Polish	Supports cell turnover
Tone	Complexion Renewal Pads	Chemical exfoliation to decongest and refine
Treat	Complexion Clarifying Serum	Targets active congestion and supports clearer skin
Protect	Daily Power Defense®	Antioxidant defense and barrier support (AM only)
SPF	Sheer Fluid Broad-Spectrum SPF 50	Essential daily protection

Evening System

Step	Product	Benefit
Cleanse	Exfoliating Cleanser	Removes SPF and environmental buildup
Tone	Oil Control Pads	Targeted sebum regulation for oily/blemish-prone skin
Treat	Retinol Skin Brightener	Accelerates cell turnover; reduces congestion over time
Masque	Complexion Clearing Masque (after the cleanse and exfoliate step)	1–2x per week; deep-draws excess oil and impurities

For a system personalized to your skin type and concerns, find a physician near you.

Combat an oily complexion with ZO® Skincare

Take a look at our Regimen Finder to find the best skincare products for your skin. For an individual approach to your skin concerns, use our finder tool to locate a ZO® Authorized Physician near you and discover targeted skincare and treatments. If you need general skincare advice or want to know more about the best ingredients for oily skin, you can use our Live Chat and speak to a Specialist.